Page 11 Front shock absorber replacementThis is a featured page

front suspLoosely reassembled front suspension after coilover shock removed.

The front suspension has a coil over shock arrangement. The plan was to take wheel off, undo top nut holding shock and undo lower bolt that runs sideways through lower suspension arm, lower the bottom suspension arm towards ground to open up some space and take out coil-over.
I had done something vaguely similar on my Renault 5 years ago when spring seat collapsed, so was reasonably confident.

No, of course it is not quite as simple as this.
The downward travel of the lower suspension arm is quite limited compared to many normal cars so it cannot be lowered to the ground to make space for the coil-over shock to come out.
I removed the two cross bolts holding the "Triumph Herald" upper wishbones to the top of the upright. These were loosened, one wishbone taken off and one folded upwards.
Next the top bolt of the coilover shock was removed. Lower one loosened but not removed yet.
Good quality (like everything I learned this the hard way long ago) coil spring compressors applied and the coil spring gradually compressed. The coil spring is not fully accessible so the spring compressors need to be applied to the lower half of the spring and as far towards each side as you can manage. They will even then not be quite evenly spaced but both slightly offset towards you.
Tighten them up slowly and keep levering the top of the shock down and loosening up the top rubber mount etc.
Try to pull the top of the shock out towards you first. Remove lower bolt and the shock "drops" further into the lower suspension arm a few mm just to give you a tiny bit more leeway at the top. When top is out towards you then wiggle everything around / lever / push and pull upwards until whole lot comes out of the lower suspension arm.
New Gaz shocks ordered and photo taken (below) of the compressed spring so I know exactly how to place the spring clamps back on again so the new spring/shock can be compressed enough and yet I can still get the assembly recessed back into the "Tower" that envelops the top half of the spring.
Next step while I wait for the shocks to come is some rust prevention behind spring while I have good access and especially the interior of the lower suspension arm.
The black stuff is not underseal. Last summer I scraped all underseal off metal parts with heatgun and painted with a chemical paint POR15 from Frosts. This is not UV stable so all metal parts then coated in Black Waxoyl for good measure. Not pretty but hopefully the combination will keep most rust at bay.
An update:
GAZ shocks are made to order and took a month to arrive (this morning). The price was very good however. Spent most of today fitting them.
Comments:
1) The springs seats are perfect and the spring is an exact fit over the inner metal locating ring at bottom end.
2) The shock is fully extended just before the lower suspension arm reaches its maximum downward travel. With previous shock the maximum downward suspension travel was limited by the lower arm hitting part of the chassis structure. Unlike the previous presumably original shock this means that when suspension at its maximum downward point, the shock is taking the residual force of the spring. The rubber bushes at the top of the shock are different sizes, the one located "on top" being quite small.
In the end I used a mixture of fittings from the top of the old shock and beefier topmost bushes.
3) The lower end of the shock sits in a hole in the lower suspension arm and a horizontal bolt then runs through the bush on the end of the shock. The base of the GAZ shock seems wider than on the previous one (not the bush but the body of the shock itself). To get the shock to sit sufficiently low enough for the horizontal bolt to go through the bush, this hole had to be widened about 2mm each side at two small points.
4) Compressing the springs was if anything easier than was the case when removing the old shocks.

springThe old rusty shock



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XenonJohn
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